Lyon: in the restaurants of the capital of gastronomy, “homemade” is a matter of debate

A report on "homemade", published by the Rhône prefecture on February 18, has cast a chill over the culinary world of Lyon. In 2024, 238 restaurants were checked on their communication elements including "homemade" and the title of "master restaurateur" , or the weight and origin of the meats sold.

On the subject of "homemade", 59 establishments claiming this mention were checked. 54% of them were in anomaly (i.e. 32 establishments). " A significant proportion were the subject of a simple written warning (i.e. 26 establishments). In the most damaging situations (customers duped or for competitors harmed by undue diversions of customers), the services proceeded by injunctions (3 establishments) within a constrained time limit to modify either the advertisements or the manufacturing methods, or referred to the courts for sanction (i.e. 5 establishments) ", indicates the prefecture.

These figures are a blot on the capital of gastronomy . And they reveal a certain lack of awareness in the profession regarding the term "homemade", defined by very strict legal rules. Gérard*, owner of one of the establishments inspected, learned this to his cost. Several infractions involving chestnut creams and pralines, not produced on site, were noted during an inspection in his restaurant. " For me, this is an application of the rule to excess. I have never seen a restaurateur make his own chestnut cream ," he laments.

"Homemade" is governed by article D122-1 of the Consumer Code . In its definition, it highlights the use of raw products and allows for some exceptions for " products that the consumer does not expect to see made by the restaurateur himself " such as salted meats, cured meats and charcuterie - with the exception of terrines and pâtés -, cheeses, bread, pasta, spices or alcohol.

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A text that has made it possible to "create clarity for the consumer ", explains Thierry Fontaine, head of the Union of Trades and Industries of the Hotel Industry (UMIH) of the Rhône. " Especially in an era where prepared meals had invaded many establishments ", indicates another restaurateur under cover of anonymity. However for the latter " the period has changed ": " Yes, there was the epic of the industrial product, of the Métro dish, which still sticks to the skin of this brand. And the "homemade" arrived to counteract that. But today, even Métro has changed with very good quality raw products. And the overall level has risen in a context so competitive that cooks no longer do just anything. "

According to Thierry Fontaine, a change in the law for greater precision would be necessary: ​​" For me, when you take a product of excellence, made by a recognized craftsman, you do not contravene the mention "homemade". I would not have my heart operated on by a general practitioner. Sometimes, it is better to deal with experts in a field than to eat a product made on site but disappointing ."

In parallel with the purely declarative "homemade", the profession has organized itself through several labels, such as Maître restaurateur , to promote certain know-how. These labels, whose establishments are audited each year, are more reliable than the simple mention "homemade" and are increasingly sought after. To the point of seeing the latter decline because it is too restrictive . " There is a reverse movement which tends to see this mention disappear in favor of mentions not regulated by law such as "made on site" or "by the boss" , indicates a restaurateur.

According to the president of the UMIH du Rhône, discussions are underway to work on an evolution of the "homemade" approach. For the latter, the large number of inspections carried out in 2024 in Lyon does not represent the reality on the ground: " At the start, the inspection services go to the establishments that have been the subject of reports, but this slows down over the years ". In 2024, 75% of the establishments inspected were in non-compliance, the majority of which were for minor anomalies. In total, 138 warnings were issued, eight administrative fines for lack of information on prices and 39 criminal reports.